Women who have ascended to prominence in the male-dominated wine sommelier profession assert that their field is gradually becoming less sexist and more inclusive, despite the ongoing trend of men securing the majority of accolades. Now an established figure as resident wine advisor at Chambers restaurant in New York, Pascaline Lepeltier remarked to AFP that when she first began her career, “a certain male clientele of a certain age didn’t trust me” – or would request to see the real sommelier. Argentina’s Paz Levinson, responsible for wine at the esteemed establishments of Anne-Sophie Pic, noted that she encountered comparable experiences in France. “Upon my arrival in France, I observed that clients exhibited a preference for a male sommelier, particularly one of French nationality,” the 47-year-old articulated.
However, over two decades into their professional journeys, both women assert that the environment has become increasingly accommodating for individuals of their gender. “The dynamics surrounding gender balance have undergone significant evolution. It’s not parity, but we’re getting there,” remarked Lepeltier, 44. She is the sole female recipient of the title Best Sommelier of France and achieved a fourth-place finish at the World’s Best Sommelier competition in 2023. However, less than 10 percent of participants in the latter competition are women, reflecting the persistent trend where men continue to dominate the majority of culinary accolades, including Michelin stars and leading spots in “Best Of” rankings.
Several women have made significant strides in the World’s Best Sommelier competition, with Canadian Veronique Rivest achieving a second-place finish in 2013, Denmark’s Nina Jensen securing runner-up positions in both 2019 and 2023, and Frenchwoman Julie Dupouy taking third place in 2016. However, none has secured the title, which is set to be awarded next October in Lisbon. “We continue to pursue the ultimate position as the leading sommeliers globally.” “We’re maintaining a considerable amount of optimism,” stated Levinson. According to Fabrice Sommier, president of the French Sommeliers Union, while a handful of pioneering female sommeliers emerged in the 1970s and 1980s, the true expansion of the profession occurred “about 20 years ago”. Currently, women represent almost 50% of individuals undergoing training in France, and a new cohort of female sommeliers is emerging in premier dining establishments, driven by significant societal transformations that have dismantled gender barriers.
“I have consistently acted under the premise that gender distinctions are inconsequential. It’s passion that brings us together,” stated Agnese Morandi. The 28-year-old Italian engaged in training with Levinson, who “opened her mind” to non-alcoholic pairings – a domain she had not previously explored under the guidance of her male supervisors. This approach continues to influence her, particularly evident in the tea selection available at Table. The question persists regarding whether gender differences result in divergent performances of the role by men and women. According to Alexandre Lesieur, a prestigious institution for culinary training, the response is affirmative. Women “venture more into regions or products that are more niche” and suggest pairings that are “a bit gentler,” he asserts. “I wouldn’t say we have a different approach,” counters Pauline Monclus, one of his apprentices, 25. “Each individual possesses a distinct personality, regardless of gender.” Lepeltier, having secured a fourth-place finish two years prior, is optimistic about improving her performance at the upcoming World’s Best Sommelier competition next year. “Equality has not yet been achieved, and there remain behaviors that are unacceptable.” However, she notes that we are considerably more supported and surrounded today than we were two decades ago, opting to adopt an optimistic perspective.